Friday 22 April 2011

CAMERA

A single lens reflex camera is by far the most suitable type to use.Its versatility allows eyepiece adaptors and magnifiers to be fitted,and some allow you to replace the standard viewfinder and/or focusing screen with others more suitable for microscope work.You can either use the camera lense to photograph the image produced by the microscope,or you can attach the camera body (without lens) directly to the microscope.
If you use the camera lens always focus the microscope image first,and use the camera lense set on infinity.When the camera is positioned above the microscope at the point of focus of the microscope image,the picture will be in focus.You can find this point by moving the camera up and down until the image in the viewfinder is sharp.
If you use the camera body only, you focus through the camera viewfinder by adjusting the focusing knobs on the microscope.When the image in the viewfinder is in focus,your picture will be sharp.By using only the microscope optics
in this way you minimize distortions which can be exaggerated by the camera lens.This enables you to produce high-quality photomicrographs.
SUPPORTING THE CAMERA
It is impossible to hand-hold the camera over your microscope eyepiece.You need a means of securing the camera in the position.such as an enlarger column ( without the enlarger head ),a table-top tripod, or a copying stand.
Many SLR manufacturers supply microscope adaptors which enable you to fix the camera in the correct position. The camera body,with an extension tube attached, is connected to an adaptor ring around the microscope eyepiece.
An ever better idea is to support the camera and adaptor independently of the microscope. Using a heavy, rigidstand minimizes the possibility of vibration being transmitted from the camera to the microscope. When your are photographing at such large magnifications  ( much larger than life-size ) even slight vibration results in blurred pictures. If you use this system, you must prevent light from reaching the film expert through the camera shutter.You can make a light trap by using two lens hoods or two tubes of black opaque card which slot one inside the other.
FILM
Special photomicrography films are made, but they tend to be more expensive than ordinary film and your local dealer may be reluctant to place a small order.You can achieve good results with a medium contrast, fine grain film. The speed of the film regulates grain size, and for first-class photomicrographs choose a sloe film to enable sharp, fine detail to be rocorded. Films like Kodak Panatomic X and Ilford Pan F are suitable black and white negative films.For colourful subjects use a colour side film ( such as Kodachrome 25 ) or a colour negative film ( such as Agfacolour CNS ).
Colour Balance: if you use colour slide film for ypur photomicrographs make sure your match it to the light source.You can use tungsten balanced film with tungsten lamps (3400K ).If the light source does not match the film use the appropriate colour conversion filter between light source and subject.

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